Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
